Nelson Crag: Mount Washington, NH
August 24, 2003

After a planned late Saturday night out did not materialize and with the hot nastiness of Summer on the decline, I made a spontaneous decision to hike a long thought of loop around Mount Washington's eastern ravines.  The plan was to ascend Mount Washington via the very steep and extremely exposed Nelson Crag trail, then hike the Alpine Garden, and either descend via either Lion's Head or Boott Spur depending upon my stamina and energy level.  I was in want of a day with decent weather and clear skies.  I got the later, but the former would turn me around halfway through the planned hike.

Driving up Route 16 on this fairly chilly August morning, I found myself switching the vent from cool to warm.  I silently noted my wise decision of packing more layers than I would normally need during a hot August day.  Upon reaching Pinkham Notch, what was a cool and calm day got suddenly cold and vicious.  The wind whipped my car back and forth and demanded my full attention and control.  Reaching the Pinkham Notch Visitor Center, I noticed many hikers wearily scouting out the weather reports before venturing up.  Reports of winds exceeding 70 MPH on the summit were not encouraging.

I began to game plan.  I acknowledged and accepted that there was a very strong possibility that I would be turned around at tree line.  Proposing check points at trail junctions and notable trail features where I would evaluate the weather conditions; I decided to begin my hike without delay.  After changing into warm clothes in the restroom, I made trailhead at 10AM. 

I began the 1.7 mile jaunt through the Old Jackson Road trail which is part of the Appalachian Trail.  The trail begins with a brief climb, but remains fairly level throughout it's leisurely cross cut towards the Great Gulf.  I referred to my watch often with disapproval noting that I was lagging behind my normal pace and had a slight and abnormal sucking of air despite the easy pitch.


Wildcat Ski Area, wanting of snow pretty badly.
Ridge at tree line, get ready to hold on tight.

At 1.7, the Nelson Crag trail branches off to the left and crosses several well constructed bog bridges.  The trail begins it's steep ascent in the trees on a mostly rocky and rooty ground.  I attempted to pace myself as much as possible; knowing that I would gain almost 3000 vertical feet in nearly 2 miles.  Uncharacteristically long breaks were taken about every 20 minutes and my stamina remained up to task, although not where it would normally have been.

At nearly the 3 hour mark during the hike, I finally gained tree line where I was to make the crucial decision.  Just below tree line, the trees were blowing very hard but the wind still seemed manageable.  Coming out of the trees, I was granted a fine view across the notch of the Wildcat Ski Area.  I began to hear voices from above...  getting louder.  They are descending at only 10AM, a bad sign.  Either they got a very early start or they were turned around.


So close... yet so far away.  Nelson Crag dares me to continue.
My photography does no justice to Adams and Madison.

Just below the final line of trees and a wide open ridge line, down came two gentleman VERY happy to be entering the trees again.  They noted it would be very difficult to go on, so they were turning around.  We chatted for a while and I decided at the least to take a peak over the ridge to gauge for myself how bad the wind was, and also to at least get some hard earned views.  I donned my fleece and windbreaker and braced myself for the worst.

Coming over the ridge, a gust of wind nearly blew me side ways.  I entered into a crouch, side stepped to get under a ledge, and grabbed for something solid to hold on to.  My, how the wind was exhilarating!  Another hiker was coming down from Nelson Crag and stopped at the first cairn above tree line a short distance above me.  I learned he had done the same loop I had planned in reverse!  He seemed pretty shaken up by the wind, but no worse for the wear.  My ascent had clearly reached it's conclusion.


My panoramic photo software didn't like my angle on these pics...
...so pretend they are one ;)  The Rock Pile mocks me.

Before returning to ground level though, I worked my way up to that first cairn and buckled myself in.  Sitting below it, I snapped off a few pictures and marveled at the scene unfolding before me.  I would have loved to have reached Nelson Crag for a better view into the Great Gulf, but even from my vantage point, Mount Madison and Mount Adams were just awesome.  The exhilaration of the wind and the view was phenomenal.  Not being able to complete my desired loop became irrelevant in my mind, as the sensations under that cairn were more than I had bargained for when I had envisioned the hike.

After about one hour of being battered unmercifully by the wind, I was cold and raw and ready to head back down.  Amazingly, I needed to only descend 100 feet into the trees and needed to take off my fleece and wind breaker as I was too hot!  The descent was uneventful and quick.  I skipped quickly down the rocks enjoying the steep descent much better than the usual long slog that accompanies most descents.  Met a couple of thru-hikers back on the A.T. and made my way back to Pinkham Visitors Center.


A rather unique view of Pinkham Notch.
Solo hiking picture taking 101, it's tough getting into the pictures.

A satisfying hike for sure, but my long planned loop around Huntington and Tuckerman Ravines will have to wait yet another year.

Back To
Hiking New England

Comments?  Suggestions?  Your Thoughts?
Email Them To: riverc0il@yahoo.com